I was recently given Elizabeth Zimmermann’s Knitter’s Almanac and was inspired by her Mitred Mittens from May. However, I was unhappy with the fact that they pointed in the middle of the hand, instead of pointing where hands naturally point, at the second finger. However, that then leaves no space for the thumb as written by EZ, so I’ve created it differently, on the side, which then means the gloves are also ambidextrous. So, as promised, here is the pattern:
Sirdar Click DK with 3.25mm needles. 18 sts and 36 rows in 4in stocking stitch.
To fit a hand measuring 7" (8") around the palm at the knuckles
Note: To get a nice line up the back and front of the hand, work the k3togs as follows: Put needle in next two stitches as if to knit together, and slip them instead. Knit the next stitch and pass the two slipped stitches over.
CO 42 (46) sts
Work back and forth for 2 garter ridges
Join in the round taking care not to twist
Row 1: k41 (45), m1, place marker, k1
Row 2: k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k7 (8)
Row 3: k41 (45), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1.
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the cuff is about 1” longer than you want it to end up. I like a short cuff, so only did 9 increase/decrease rounds before starting the thumb, so that’s the row count I’ve used here.
I’ve written out quite full instructions for the thumb, but basically, you create it between the two seam stitches.
Row 22: m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k7 (8)
Row 23: k42 (46), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1
Row 24: k1, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k8 (9)
Row 25: k43 (47), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k1
Row 26: k2, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (13), k3tog, k9 (10)
Row 27: k44 (48), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k2
Row 28: k3, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k10 (11)
Row 29: k45 (49), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k3
Row 30: k4, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k11 (12)
Row 31: k46 (50), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k4
Row 32: k5, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k12 (13)
Row 33: k47 (51), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k5
Row 34: k6, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k13 (14)
Row 35: k48 (52), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k6
Row 36: k7, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k14 (15)
Row 37: k49 (53), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1, k7
Row 38: k8, m1, k1, m1, k5 (6), k3tog, k11 (12), m1, k2, m1, k11 (12), k3tog, k15 (16)
Row 39: k50 (54), remove marker, m1, place marker, k1, m1
Separate off the next 15 sts for the thumb and put them on scrap yarn
Carry on repeating row 2 and 3 until the outer seam reaches to the base of your little finger nail without being stretched. Continue knitting in pattern, omitting the increases on the outside of the glove, but continuing on the thumb side, until the number of stitches either side of the k3tog ridge is the same. Omit all increases and continue decreasing until you have only 10 sts in total. Break yarn and thread through stitches, tighten and weave in ends.
Take the stitches from the scrap yarn and work in the round until level with the top of your thumb. Work a round of k2tog then break yarn, thread through all stitches, tighten and weave in ends.
And there you have it, ambidextrous mittens with an interesting stitch pattern, and that fit the end of your hands properly.
